Home Forums Mods and Improvements Spray Guards

  • Creator
  • #1224
    Paul White

    The Weta is a very wet boat, especially in winds over 15 knots, when it seems as if a fire hose is spraying across the middle of the tramps at either side.

    The centre of the boat and the outer edge of the tramp get less spray and a pair of sunglasses or goggles (e.g. kite surfing goggles) can make it easier on the crew (wipe with RainX hydrophobic liquid available from motoring stores).

    However, if you are faced with mutiny from the crew because of the spray, you may want to consider using the instructions below to create your own spray guards which were conceived and designed by Weta sailor, Steve McLelland.

    According to Jim they don’t affect the performance and he has tested them in waves and wind up to 25 knots.

    Printable Instructions here

    If you don’t want to make your own then Pete Cailes is making Splash Guards available from the UK at £106.00 plus P&P.

    Only one attachment to be fitted. No bolt ropes, no sleeves, tailored to suit the profile of the main hull.

    When not required, splash guard can be rolled up and stored under the gunwale.
    For more information contact Pete Cailes (peteandlesleycailes@gmaildotcom)
    Also Rain and Sun, who make boat covers including a Mast Up Cover for the Weta also make Spray Guards




    Rolled Up

    Material List

    Weta Spray Guard BOM
    Description Qty. Units Vendor Part # Price Amount Comments
    1″ webbing 40 ft Sailrite 103416 $       0.35 $       14.00
    trampoline 2 yd Sailrite 5624 $     15.95 $       31.90 1.5 yd/set
    3mm line 20 ft Sailrite 103130 $       0.55 $       11.00
    Thread, V-69, Polyester UV 1 per Sailrite 20225 $       5.95 $         5.95 makes 2 sets
    Bobbin, V-69, Polyester UV 4 per Sailrite 103313 $       0.55 $         2.20
    Basting Tape, Seamstick, 1/2″ 1 per Sailrite 20307 $       7.95 $         7.95 makes 2 sets
    Alligator Buckle, Tourniquet, 1″ SS 2 per Ebay $       6.99 $       13.98
    Ronstan Eyestrap, RF 1058 4 per West Marine 120733 $       7.48 $       29.92 free ship > $50
    M5 25mm pan head bolts, nylocks, washers 1 per West Marine $       5.00 $        5.00
    Velcro Straps 2 per Home Depot 245578 $       6.00 $       12.00
    Total $     133.90

    Hints and tricks

    1. Make sure you make a left side and a right side! The webbing goes on the underside.
    2. I use a model airplane covering iron to keep the folds crisp in the trampoline material.   Be sure not to use too much heat or stay in one place too long. Standard warnings…practice first…very easy.
    3. Don’t cut the basting tape. Tear instead, making easier paper backing removal.
    4. Zig zag stitching is used on long runs. Straight short stitches for localized high strength.


    1. Measure trampoline to 53″, mark and cut.
    2. Measure 7″ along one short side and mark. Measure 46″ along the other side and mark. Draw the Angle side, then cut.
      mesh dimensions
    3. Short and Long sides, full length, fold over 1/2″ – 3/4″, iron, then baste tape in the fold. Make sure you make a left and a right!!!!
    4. Short side, baste on top of the fold, webbing full length. 2 runs zig zag sew.
    5. Long side, cut 61″ from the corner (see drawing above), fold over 1/2″, baste, cut 3″ webbing. Sew perpendicular to Long side.
    6. Long side, fold and webbing. Extend webbing 8′ beyond where the Short and Long sides meet (for boat attachment). Zig zag stitch, strong in the corner.
    7. Short side, cut webbing square at the tip, fold over three inches underneath, baste…DO NOT sew in the first 1/2″ of the fold as the tension cord runs through there, so put a mark there so you don’t overrun! Strong.
    8. Cut webbing 8″ and 10″ for corner attachment points. Mark center of loop, fold triple layer in center, stitch.
    9. Short side, 8″ webbing attachment strap at 45° angle, loop about 3/4″ out and 1/4″ up from the corner. Again, don’t sew into the cord channel.
    10. Long side, fold over tip 1 1/4″, leave channel.
    11. Long side, 10″ webbing attachment strap, in-line. Channel opens up at an angle.
    12. Run 8′ of 3mm line through the two tips, tie off.
    13. Long side, top side of spray guard (I prefer the buckle accessible from above), mark 10″ from corner. 9″ webbing, through buckle, leave the top layer 1/2″ longer than the bottom for clean transition, place webbing buckle fold at mark, buckle towards corner.
    14. Only on the forward tip, pull the cord flush with the tip. then sew. Do NOT sew the rear tip!
    15. Secure the attachment lines with a strap of webbing, then trim.
    16. Add pockets to hold the ama webbing.
    17. Add velcro straps forward and aft to secure the spray guards when they’re rolled up. ( They roll up to the underside).
    18. Rough fit the spray guards, tie off the rear, adjust the outward strap so the spray guard contours the hull.
    19. With the forward tie under tension, mark the locations of the holes. I used about 1 1/2″ excess to allow for fore and aft alignment and stretching. Mine are 25″ aft of the bow strop holes.
    20. For the aft attachment, put the spray guards under tension, then install as you did with the forward attachments.
    21. Improvements: Having tested your spray guard, you may want to add an extra patch of mesh material set at a different angle to the first to catch the main jet of spray that comes up from the bow.





    • This topic was modified 8 years, 10 months ago by Paul White.
    • This topic was modified 8 years, 10 months ago by Paul White.
    • This topic was modified 8 years, 10 months ago by Paul White.
    • This topic was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by Paul White.
    • This topic was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by Paul White.
    • This topic was modified 4 months ago by Paul White.
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  • Author
    • #1227
      Paul White
      • City: Sydney
      • Country: Australia
      • Weta Sail Number: 1300

      FAQ for Spray Guards (from Steve McLelland)

      – Why?
      They keep the wife happy (and dry)!  They keep the salt water out of your eyes!

      – How well do they work?
      Extremely well!  The ones pictured are the 3rd version and have been well tested in just about all conditions.
      – How much spray do they really cut down?
      They cut down nearly 100% of the firehose spray (esp for your crew).  It really dries the boat out.  The only remaining spray comes off the of the bow of the ama itself or the small amount that escapes from the edges if you really slam into a wave.

      – Do they change the boat performance?
      Someone would argue “yes”, but it’s minor if anything; especially on days when you need them ;).  In light air, roll them up and use velcro straps to hold them under the lip.  If it heats up, it’s quick to unroll them and open them on the water.

      – What conditions have you tested them in and have you had problems where it causes the boat to do something unexpected (pitch)
      I’ve tested them in a wide range of conditions from ~25 knots in seas, down to using them as a place to store gear on Texas-zero-wind-days.  I push the boat as hard as I can and usually use 12.9 kite well outside of it’s operating range and have had zero issues.  If anything it actually might help keep the bow from going under since the spray hits so hard when you’re overpowered.

      – What about when you burry the ama, doesn’t the fabric catch and drag you down?
      Actually if you look at the height of the corner of the carbon tube relative to the bow height, you’ll see that there is a good amount difference.  That gives plenty of room to the allow the water to flow under it.  Even burying it completely, the spray guard is still above the water.

      – Do they make noise or flap around?
      No, they are just like the tramps.

      – How are the attached?
      I tried a bunch of different attachments and simple has been the best!  On the bow, I just put a small piece of spectra through the same holes as the forestay.  Then tied a figure-eight on the top and tied it tight underneath.   On the stern-side, I ended up drilling through the lip of the boat and installing the two Ronstan eyelets under the lip (see photos).  I tried a bunch of non-drilling solutions (to the stern, to the poles, even had d-rings sewn into the main traps).  The simple mechanical connection is the way to go!  Two holes and you’re done.   The outside of the triangle, where it attaches to the ama; same thing, I tried a bunch of options and simple was best.  The webbing just loops once around the carbon tube, and then through the clasp along the edge and it’s done.

      – Are they easy to put on and take off?
      We ended up using a bimini top clasp that allows for super easy adjustment and tensioning.  Just pull it through and yank it and it’s tight.  This is also so that when you come into the shore, you can loosen it with one hand and jump off the front to catch the boat.  I was planning on taking them on and off, but I don’t.  I just leave them on all the time, even when trailering and so on.  I just roll them up and put a velcro tab on and call it a day.  Go sailing = unroll, loop webbing around carbon tube and pull tight.  If you did want to remove them, then just unloop the webbing on the back, and untie in the front and you’re done.

      – What fabric did you use?
      I tried a few types and settled on basically the same fabric that the tramps are made of, with a polyester 1″ webbing that runs around the edge.   Also the fabric is on the bias (45 degree angle) so that the weave is parallel to the boat.  This allows more tension in the fabric along the hull.

      – Can you stand/sit on them?
      Surprisingly yes.  I’ve stood on them.  They sag to the water level but, they’ll hold you.

      – If I made another set, would I change anything?
      Yes, I’d add an additional layer of fabric along the inside edge to stiffen them and prevent the super hard spray from misting through the fabric.

      – Who did the sewing and what did it cost?
      A local sailmaker whipped them up from my home-sewn prototype.  Around $50 of labor.

      • This reply was modified 8 years, 10 months ago by Paul White.
      • This reply was modified 8 years, 10 months ago by Paul White.
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